Friday, July 27, 2012
Los Andes
Los Andes on Chalkstone Avenue in Providence is a cultural epiphany. I first came here after just leaving Argentina a couple years back, and was shocked at how well the food mirrored that South American feel. Heavily spiced, huge slabs of meat with heart attack inducing sides (get the cheese rice). One of the most fantastic things about the menu however, is the sheer size of it. I'm not just talking about the portions either (read: HUGE) I'm talking about the amount of things that can be ordered. From beef hearts to fantastic Hominy based ceviche, you could even bring a vegetarian here. I don't know why you would but it's possible.
The meat is cooked primarily Parilla style (see the picture above), this means slow cooking over coals, and THIS means excellent texture with rich smokey flavor. The sauces, when they are served, are on the side. This means the flavors are genuine and not added. Even the fish is cooked in this Argentinian style.
There are fusion dishes, to be sure, but if you want the real experience go for the excellent tilapia ceviche or the table site parilla, where the server will bring a grill to your tableside.
While not the final word on class, Los Andes is a culinary masterpiece. The food and portions and fantastic as well as the price. Even better is if you can make it on a Friday night, where an Ecuadorian band can be found playing live.
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